To clean dab tools, rigs, and dab pads without ruining them, use high percentage isopropyl alcohol, warm water, and soft, non abrasive tools, then match your cleaning method to each material. If you want to clean dab tools the right way, stop torching them red hot, avoid harsh abrasives on quartz and glass, and treat silicone like silicone, not like metal or glass.
Real talk, a little smart dab maintenance saves you a lot of money and heartbreak.
Most people blame concentrates for gunked up gear. The real culprit is bad cleaning habits.
I’ve been using and testing dab rigs, silicone dab mats, and dabbing accessories for about a decade now, and the same patterns keep popping up.
Here are the top gear killers I see all the time:
The goal of any good dabbing guide for cleaning is simple. Remove residue without removing material or ruining flavor.
Let’s start with the easiest part of your setup to fix and the easiest part to wreck: your dab tools.
By dab tools here, I mean:
Different materials need different cleaning approaches.
Stainless steel or titanium tools
These are pretty tough. You can be more aggressive, within reason.
Quartz and glass tools
Great flavor, super clean look, also fragile. No aggressive scraping.
Ceramic tools
Clean flavor, but chip and crack if you thermal shock or scrape too hard.
If you want to actually clean dab tools efficiently, think “tiny habits” not “huge scrub once a month”.
Right after a dab, while the tool is still warm but not scorching:
1. Wipe the tip on a folded dry cotton pad or paper towel.
2. If it is really sticky, dip the pad in a bit of 91 to 99 percent isopropyl alcohol and wipe again.
3. Let it air dry for 30 seconds before using it again.
You can keep a small jar of ISO and cotton swabs right on your dab station. Dirt cheap and honestly a game changer.
For stainless or titanium dabbers and caps:
1. Drop them into a small glass jar.
2. Cover with 91 to 99 percent ISO.
3. Let them soak 15 to 30 minutes for light buildup, up to a few hours if they are ancient.
4. Swirl, then scrub with a soft toothbrush if needed.
5. Rinse with warm water.
6. Dry completely with a towel or let air dry.
You do not need to torch metal tools red hot to “sterilize” them every time. That is how you discolor titanium and warp cheaper tools.
For bangers, terp pearls, and glass or quartz dabbers, I recommend this order:
1. Gently scrape only loose, crusty bits with a wooden or plastic pick. Avoid metal on quartz.
2. Place pieces in a small container.
3. Cover with warm (not boiling) ISO. 91 percent or higher works best.
4. Add a pinch of coarse salt if there is heavy buildup.
5. Soak 20 to 40 minutes.
6. Swirl the container or use a soft cotton swab on stubborn spots.
7. Rinse with warm water.
8. Let everything air dry completely before reheating.
Yes, every dabber on earth has heated a tool over the torch to burn off residue. I’ve done it more times than I can count.
Used lightly, it can help. Used constantly, it will:
My rule in 2024:
Your dab rig is where flavor lives and dies. Reclaim, old water, and biofilm in a rig hits flavor harder than anything.
This applies to both dedicated rigs and dual use glass pieces you might also use as a bong.
1. Dump the water
Empty out the old water. If it smells like a swamp, you waited too long.
2. Rinse with warm water
Rinse the rig several times to loosen loose reclaim and plant matter.
3. Add salt
Pour 1 to 2 tablespoons of coarse salt into the rig. This acts like tiny scrubbers.
4. Add ISO
Add enough isopropyl to cover the reclaim zones. Usually 2 to 4 ounces, depending on rig size.
5. Plug the holes
Use rubber stoppers, your palms, or even paper towel packed into joints to seal everything.
6. Shake like you mean it
Shake for 2 to 5 minutes. Switch directions so the salt hits every surface.
7. Check progress
If the glass still looks foggy or streaked, repeat with fresh ISO and salt.
8. Rinse thoroughly
Rinse with warm water until you cannot smell alcohol at all.
9. Air dry
Let the rig sit upside down on a towel so any remaining water drains.
For glass vaporizer bubblers, hand pipes, and smaller attachments, the exact same ISO + salt method works, just in miniature.
For electronic vaporizers:
If you use one glass piece as both a bong and a dab rig, understand you will always be fighting old flower residue. The flavor will never be as clean as a dedicated oil rig.
This is where I see people get weird and overdo it. Your silicone dab mat or Oil Slick Pad does not need the same aggressive cleaning as glass or metal.
The good news: silicone is pretty forgiving. You just have to avoid a couple of big mistakes.
Daily or weekly, depending on how messy your setup gets:
1. Peel or scrape off large chunks of reclaim with a silicone or plastic scraper.
2. Rinse the dab pad with warm water.
3. Use a tiny bit of mild dish soap and your fingertips or a soft sponge.
4. Rinse thoroughly until the surface is squeaky clean.
5. Air dry or pat dry with a lint free towel.
Silicone is non stick, so most reclaim releases easily once it is cool and solid. Oil Slick Pad products are designed for this exact abuse.
If your concentrate pad looks permanently cloudy or sticky:
1. Follow the warm water and soap routine first.
2. If residue remains, wipe the surface with a small amount of ISO on a cloth.
3. Do not soak the pad in alcohol for hours. A quick wipedown is enough.
4. Rinse again with warm water.
5. Let it air dry completely before putting tools back on it.
You can freeze silicone to make reclaim easier to peel. Just do not bake it.
Let’s stack up some simple, practical options. No fancy kits required if you do not want them.
Budget Option (Under $10)
Standard Option ($15-30)
Premium Option ($30-60)
For silicone dab pads specifically:
Simple Pad Care (Almost free)
Reclaim Focused Care ($5-15)
You do not need to run a sterile lab. But you also do not want a petri dish as your dab rig.
Here is a realistic schedule that works for most concentrate users.
Every session or daily
Every 3 to 7 days
Every 1 to 2 weeks
Once a month
Between you and me, the biggest difference between a “meh” and a “wow” dab is usually not the extract. It is how clean the gear is that day.
People talk a lot about how to dab, which terp profile hits hardest, which rig shape stacks the best. Less sexy topic: cleaning.
But honestly, clean gear changes everything.
Here is what consistent dab maintenance gets you:
I have tested older rigs that were “cleaned sometimes” versus rigs with a strict schedule. The difference is night and day, especially with live resin, rosin, and other terp heavy concentrates.
If you want to clean dab tools, rigs, and dab pads the right way, the formula is pretty simple. Be gentle, be consistent, and match the cleaning method to the material.
Glass and quartz like ISO and patience. Metal likes ISO and a good scrub. Silicone likes warm water, mild soap, and the occasional ISO wipe, especially if it is a quality silicone dab mat like an Oil Slick Pad. Your whole dab station will just feel better to use.
Think of it as respecting your concentrates. You paid good money for that rosin or sauce. Running it through dirty glass and sticky tools is like pouring a nice whiskey into a moldy cup.
Keep your setup clean, and every hit tastes like it is supposed to.