January 29, 2026 10 min read

For most dabbers in 2026, a solid butane torch is the best daily driver, it’s cleaner, easier to control, and less likely to torch your whole dab station by accident. Pair it with a non-slip dab pad and you’ll keep your rig stable, your tools corralled, and your sesh way less chaotic.

I’ve been dabbing for years, and I’ve tested a dumb number of torches across home setups, travel kits, and group seshes. I’ve burned my fingers, scorched a countertop once, and learned what actually matters. This is the straight version.


Butane vs propane, which is better for dabbing?

But honestly, “better” depends on your banger size, how you heat, and how much you value control over raw power.

Butane: cleaner feel, better control

Butane torches are what most people picture for quartz bangers. The flame is predictable, the torch bodies are compact, and the fuel doesn’t smell like a garage.

Where butane wins:

  • Easier flame control for low temp dabs
  • More torch styles made for hand use (pocket, tabletop, angled heads)
  • Less “industrial” heat vibe around glass

Typical pricing in 2026:

  • $10 to $25: small pocket torch, fine for occasional use
  • $30 to $80: reliable single-flame or “big shot” style torch that heats faster
  • $80+: pro-level torches, usually better ergonomics and longer life

Propane: heat monster, less finesse

Propane torches (the hardware-store style) get the job done. Fast. Sometimes too fast.

Where propane wins:

  • Big quartz, thick-bottom bangers, terp slurpers, and long heat cycles
  • Cold garages, windy patios, situations where butane struggles
  • Cheap fuel per session if you dab a lot

Where it annoys me:

  • It’s easier to overheat quartz and cook your terps
  • Tanks are bulky, and the whole setup feels like you’re sweating copper pipe
  • The odor can be noticeable around your glass if you’re sensitive to it
Note: Both butane and propane burn hot enough for quartz in open air. The difference you feel is control, torch ergonomics, and how fast you can overshoot your target temp.

Quick pick guide (no table, just reality)

Budget Daily Torch ($10 to $25)

  • Fuel: Butane
  • Flame: Single jet
  • Best for: Small to medium bangers, light users, travel

Best “One Torch for Everything” ($40 to $80)

  • Fuel: Butane
  • Flame: Strong single jet (sometimes adjustable)
  • Best for: Most rigs, most quartz, most people

Power Option for Big Quartz ($20 to $60 plus tank)

  • Fuel: Propane
  • Flame: Wider, hotter feel
  • Best for: Thick quartz, terp slurpers, high-volume sessions

What flame control actually matters for low temp flavor?

Truth is, flame control is the whole game. Anyone can get quartz glowing. Getting it hot enough without nuking terps is the skill.

Here’s what I pay attention to.

Flame shape: pinpoint beats “leaf blower”

A tight, focused flame lets you heat specific zones of the banger. The bottom, the lower sidewall, the outer edge. That’s how you avoid a red-hot hotspot while the rest of the bucket is still cold.

Wide flames feel fast, but they’re sloppy on smaller buckets.

Adjustable output: yes, you want it

If your torch is basically “off” and “dragon,” you’ll overshoot constantly. A smooth adjustment knob is the difference between:

  • 30-second heat up and a clean 45-second cool down
  • 15-second heat up and guessing like a clown

Single jet vs multi jet

Multi-jet torches look cool. They also blast heat everywhere, which can be rough on quartz and even rougher on your confidence.

My take:

  • Single jet: better for learning temps and staying consistent
  • Multi jet: fine for big quartz or outdoor use, but it’s easy to scorch
Pro Tip: If you keep chazzing your banger, your torch might be “too much,” even if your technique is decent. Dropping to a calmer single jet fixes more problems than people want to admit.

How do you set up a safer dab station with a dab pad?

Look, you can have the best torch on earth and still wreck a surface if your setup is sketchy.

A dab pad is boring until the day it saves your countertop, your glass, or your thigh. I like a grippy silicone surface under the rig, plus a defined spot for the torch and tools. Less reaching around hot stuff.

What I want in a heat-friendly setup:

  • A stable base for the rig, no sliding on slick counters
  • A “parking spot” for a hot dab tool
  • A place for caps, Q-tips, and a jar that won’t tip easily

This is where a silicone dab mat or concentrate pad earns its keep. At Oil Slick Pad, we see the same pattern: people buy a nicer rig, then realize their whole station is still a mess of sticky jars and hot metal on bare wood. Fix the station, and everything feels cleaner.

A tidy dab station with a rig on a silicone dab mat, torch parked safely, <a href=carb cap and tools laid out" style="max-width: 100%; height: auto; border-radius: 12px;" loading="lazy">
A tidy dab station with a rig on a silicone dab mat, torch parked safely, carb cap and tools laid out

What to look for in a silicone mat for dabbing

Silicone varies a lot. Cheap mats can feel flimsy and slide around. Better ones sit flatter and catch reclaim without feeling like a dog bowl.

Practical specs I actually care about:

  • Thickness: around 3 mm or more feels stable
  • Size: 8 x 10 inches is a nice “small station,” 10 x 12 inches fits more gear
  • Raised edges: useful if you’re messy with rosin jars
  • Texture: grippy on both sides beats smooth-and-skatey

And yeah, it’s not a heat shield for direct flame. It’s a buffer against hot tools, sticky drips, and clumsy hands.

Warning: Don’t point your torch at your mat “just for a second.” Silicone can handle heat, but direct flame is how you get smoke, stink, and regret.

What’s the safest way to heat a quartz banger with a torch?

Real talk: most “dab accidents” are boring. Not explosions. Just small burns, knocked-over rigs, and someone setting a torch down while it’s still on. So I focus on repeatable habits.

The safest torch routine (step-by-step)

1. Clear the area around your rig, no paper towels, no alcohol bottles, no dangling sleeves.

2. Put the rig on a stable surface, preferably a wax pad or dab tray style station.

3. Light the torch pointed away from your face and away from the rig.

4. Bring the flame to the banger, not the other way around.

5. Heat the bottom first, then sweep the sidewalls. Don’t park the flame in one spot.

6. Turn the torch off before you set it down. Every time.

7. Wait your usual cool down, then cap and sip.

If you’re temp chasing, use an IR thermometer or a terp timer. Your lungs aren’t a thermometer.

Cold starts and why they’re torch-friendly

Cold starts are popular again in 2026, partly because people are sick of chazzing expensive quartz. Also because it tastes good.

Cold start routine:

1. Dab goes in first.

2. Cap goes on.

3. Gentle heat from below until it starts to bubble.

4. Inhale slow and stop heating early.

5. Reheat in tiny pulses if needed.

Cold starts reward flame control. Propane can do it, but it’s like writing your name with a pressure washer.

Avoiding chazz and devit (the stuff that ruins quartz)

If your bucket gets cloudy, crusty, or permanently stained, it’s usually one of these:

  • Too hot, too often
  • Letting puddles burn down to carbon
  • Torch focused on one spot until it glows

A clean banger is mostly a temp and cleanup problem, not a “buy a new banger” problem.


How do you maintain a dab torch so it doesn’t fail mid-sesh?

Between you and me, most torch “breaks” are fuel issues, clog issues, or user issues.

Here’s what I do.

Use decent butane (it matters)

Cheap fuel can carry more impurities. That gunk ends up in the torch jets and you get:

  • sputtering flame
  • weak flame
  • torch that won’t stay lit

I’m not saying you need boutique fuel, but I do buy refined butane and I stopped fighting clogged jets all the time.

Purge the tank before refilling

This one fixes a lot.

1. Turn the torch off and let it cool.

2. Use a small tool to press the refill valve and release leftover gas.

3. Refill with the torch upside down, can upside down.

4. Let it sit 5 minutes before lighting.

That purge step helps prevent air pockets, which cause flame drama.

Pro Tip: If your torch lights, then dies, then lights again after you shake it, you probably have air in the tank or a partial clog.

Clean the nozzle area

If your torch has visible debris around the head, clean it with a dry cotton swab. If it’s sticky, a tiny bit of ISO on a swab helps, but keep liquids away from internal parts.

And don’t go poking jets with random needles. That’s a good way to turn “slightly clogged” into “permanently weird flame.”

Store it like you want it to work

  • Don’t leave it in a hot car
  • Don’t store it next to your rig where it gets splashed with water
  • Keep the flame lock off if it has one

Also, if you travel with a torch, empty it first. Leaky fuel in a bag is a gross surprise.


What are the best torch alternatives in 2026 (and who should switch)?

Thing is, torches aren’t the only clean way to dab anymore. The last couple years, especially 2026 and 2026, pushed more people toward consistent, button-press heat. Less guesswork. Less burnt rosin.

E-nails: consistent heat, less ritual

If you dab daily and care about repeatable temps, an e-nail is hard to beat.

Pros:

  • Set a temp and stop thinking
  • Great for long sessions
  • No open flame

Cons:

  • Cords
  • Not very travel-friendly
  • Coil fit and controller quality matter a lot

This is the “I want my dab rig to behave like a vaporizer” move. And I get it.

Electronic rigs: convenient, but not always as tasty

Portable e-rigs and dab vaporizers keep getting better. Some hit great. Some taste muted. Some are a cleaning chore.

If you like a clean countertop and zero torch life, they’re worth a look. If you love big quartz flavor and the ritual, you’ll probably come back to flame.

Induction and other weird heat sources

You’ll see more gadgety heat options in 2026. Some are cool. Some feel like prototypes.

My opinion: if it’s not common enough to get replacement parts easily, I don’t want it as my only setup.

Close-up of a quartz banger being heated with a controlled single-jet flame, with an IR thermometer aimed at the bucket
Close-up of a quartz banger being heated with a controlled single-jet flame, with an IR thermometer aimed at the bucket

What torch and setup should you buy first (price-realistic picks)?

No fluff. Here’s what I’d do based on how people actually dab.

If you’re new and just bought a small rig

Go butane, single jet, adjustable flame.

  • Torch: $15 to $30 gets you a totally usable starter
  • Add-on: a silicone dab mat to keep the rig planted
  • Tool plan: one dab tool, one carb cap, a pack of glob mops, and ISO

This keeps your learning curve smooth. Your glass stays safer. Your hits taste better.

If you’re a heavy user with big quartz or terp slurpers

Either:

  • A higher-end butane torch with strong output and good ergonomics
  • Or propane if you know you’re going to be heating thick quartz constantly

If you go propane, be honest with yourself. Are you trying to dab, or are you trying to forge a sword?

If your priority is “no open flame in my house”

Get an e-nail or a solid e-rig.

And still use a station setup. Hot parts are still hot parts.

Important: No matter what heat source you use, treat your glass like glass. Stable surface, clear space, and a plan for where hot tools go.

Where this fits with your other gear (rigs, bongs, pipes)

Dabbing is its own lane, but the gear overlap is real.

  • A good dab station setup makes your whole glass shelf less chaotic, even if you also use a bong for flower.
  • If you’re mostly a pipe person, a torch-and-banger setup can feel like a lot. That’s where vaporizers and e-rigs win.
  • If you’re deep into glass, especially heady rigs, torch control matters more because you’re usually pairing nicer quartz with nicer glass, and you don’t want heat stress or accidents.

And yes, your torch choice changes how your quartz ages. I’ve seen “same banger, different torch” produce totally different levels of chazz over a month.


A few solid reads to keep your setup clean and safe

If you want to tighten up the whole routine, these are worth a quick read on Oil Slick Pad:

  • A guide to cleaning a dab rig fast (the ISO and salt basics, plus what not to do)
  • How to keep a quartz banger from chazzing (temps, timing, and Q-tip habits)
  • Building a simple dab station (mat size, tool layout, and reclaim control)
  • Fire safety guidance on storing fuel canisters indoors (especially if you keep propane around)
  • Manufacturer safety sheets for butane and propane handling and storage

A torch is a tool, not a personality. Pick the fuel that fits your style, prioritize flame control, and don’t ignore maintenance just because it’s boring. And if you do one small upgrade this week, make it your station: a stable surface, a smart layout, and a dab pad that keeps your rig from skating around while you’re holding literal fire. That’s the kind of “dabbing accessory” that doesn’t feel exciting until it saves your glass.

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