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Free Dab Timer

Every banger has a timing curve. Thin quartz wants 25 seconds of torch, thick quartz closer to a minute, and the cool-down is where dabs are won or lost. This timer computes both stages for your exact setup, then tunes itself from how each dab actually hit.

Free. No account. It predicts rather than measures, and it gets sharper every dab. Install it from your browser menu and it works offline, presets included.
Timer not loading, or prefer a clean page? Open the standalone timer.

Dialed in by your third dab

1

Match it to your rig

Material, wall thickness, bucket, style, torch or e-rig. Know your gear? Thirty seconds. Not sure what a slurper is? The setup wizard asks five plain questions instead.

2

Run the two-stage countdown

Full heat-up to saturation, then a patient cool-down to your flavor window. If you heat by eye, tap Torch off and let it time only the cool-down, which is the part a clock is actually good at.

3

Tell it how the dab hit

One tap: harsh, nailed it, or weak. Your numbers move a few seconds in the right direction and stay yours. Two clean runs in a row and the setup is dialed. Save it, name it, done counting.

The timer already knows how to run the free quartz banger that ships with every dab rig at Oil Slick, and the free glass bowl that ships with every bong. Browse dab rigs, quartz bangers, and directional caps when you are ready to upgrade the hardware side of the equation.

In this guide: how the timing works · temperature windows · frequently asked questions · embed it on your site

How this dab timer works

A good dab comes down to the surface temperature of your banger at the moment the concentrate touches it. Too hot and you scorch the terps, take a harsh hit, and leave a charred puddle. Too cold and the dab pools up without fully vaporizing, which just wastes material.

The catch is that you can't see temperature. Some people buy an infrared thermometer. Most people count seconds in their head. This timer keeps the counting honest by adjusting for the things that actually change the numbers: what your banger is made of, how thick it is, how you heat it, and how you like your dabs.

Why thermal mass is the whole game

A banger works like a heat battery. The torch charges it, and once the flame comes off it slowly discharges into the air, your rig, and your dab. How fast that happens depends on how much material there is, what that material is, and the shape. A slurper or blender carries a lot more glass than a plain flat-top, so everything takes longer.

Quartz is what most people run. It heats fast, holds heat evenly, and stays clean at dab temperatures. A 2mm banger heats quickly and cools quickly, so its dab window is short. A 4mm banger takes a lot longer under the torch but stays in the zone through a long, slow dab. Neither one is better. They're different tools, and the thickness and diameter settings account for the real differences between them.

Titanium moves heat much faster than quartz, so both stages get shorter. It also isn't sold by wall thickness, so the timer skips that question for ti. Ceramic is the slow one in both directions. Thermal double-wall bangers insulate the dish, so they take longer to get hot but hold the window once they're there, and the timer gives them a longer dab window instead of just a longer wait.

The two-stage countdown

For torch users the timer runs two stages.

The heat-up stage estimates how long a steady flame takes to soak the whole banger with heat, not just the bottom. A fully soaked banger cools on a predictable curve. A flash-heated one crashes the second the flame comes off, and no clock can save that dab. If you heat by eye instead, that works too. Tap the torch-off button the moment you pull the flame, or skip the heat stage entirely and only time the cool-down.

The cool-down stage is where your profile matters. Max Flavor waits for roughly 480 to 540°F, where the delicate terps survive. Balanced lands in the mid 500s, which is the everyday zone. Big Clouds dabs at 600 to 650°F for heavy vapor at the cost of some taste. Consistency nudges the target too: rosin and live resin do best at the cool end, while shatter needs a bit more heat to vaporize fully.

Cold-start dabs

Cold start flips the whole sequence. You load your dab into a clean, room-temperature banger first, then wave a low flame under the dish until the melt starts to bubble and run. That usually takes well under 20 seconds. Then you cap it and pull. A lot of people set the cap on before heating so there's nothing to fumble.

It works in a regular bucket, a dedicated cold-start banger, or a slurper, where it's especially popular. The bubble is the real signal, not the clock, so in Cold Start mode the big button becomes "It's bubbling". Tap it the moment the melt runs and the timer jumps straight to your dab window. The countdown is just a guard rail so you don't overshoot.

Back-to-back dabs

A banger that just finished a dab is still warm. That's why counting "the usual count" on your second dab so often comes out too hot.

When you finish a torch dab, the timer switches to Back-to-back mode on its own. Warm five seconds after a dab is very different from warm three minutes later, so it scales the shortened timing by how long it's actually been. Step away for more than five minutes and it quietly goes back to first-dab timing. One tip: if the banger has visible residue, swab it first. Burned residue changes how the surface takes heat and muddies every dab after it.

E-rigs and e-nails

With an e-rig there's no cool-down guesswork. You set a temperature and the device holds it. So in e-rig mode the timer suggests a setpoint based on your device, profile, and consistency, then runs a simple session countdown as a pacing aid.

The device question matters because different hardware measures temperature in different places. A Puffco Peak senses the bowl itself, so its display is close to the real surface temp and the suggested setpoint matches the target range directly. Portable e-rigs tend to read slightly hot. A coil e-nail reads the coil wrapped around the banger, which runs quite a bit hotter than the dish, and that's the only case where the setpoint should sit well above the target range.

Carb caps and terp pearls

A carb cap restricts airflow over the banger, which lets your melt vaporize fully at lower temperatures, and lower temperatures mean more flavor survives. Terp pearls take it further by stirring the melt pool so the dab spreads across the hot surface instead of sitting in one cooling puddle. If your low-temp dabs keep coming out weak, a directional cap and a pair of pearls will fix that better than more torch time will.

How the timer learns your rig

After each timed dab, the timer asks one question: harsh, nailed it, or weak? Your answer nudges your personal calibration a few seconds in the right direction and remembers it. Harsh means more cool-down next time. Repeated weak dabs eventually add torch time too, since a weak dab can mean an under-soaked banger rather than too long a wait.

One good dab isn't calibration, so the timer won't call your setup dialed until you've stacked two clean runs in a row. A few dabs in, it's running your numbers instead of generic ones, tuned to your banger, your torch, and your room. That calibration rides along when you save a preset, and you can move presets to a new phone with the sync code under My Presets.

Honest limits of any timer

This timer predicts. It doesn't measure. The ranges on screen are estimates from your setup, and your torch's fuel level, flame size, room temperature, and banger wear all shift the real numbers.

That's also why the heat-up countdown is optional. If you heat by eye, use the "I heat by eye" button and only time the cool-down, which is the part a clock is actually good at. Treat the first run as a safe starting point and let the feedback buttons walk it in. If you want a true measurement instead of an estimate, that's what an infrared thermometer is for. Once your setup is dialed, save it as a preset and quit counting in your head.

Quick safety notes

Torch on a clear, stable, nonflammable surface. Never heat quartz until it glows. Keep hot glass away from skin, and if you cleaned with iso, make sure the alcohol has fully evaporated before the flame comes back out. Higher temperatures also produce more thermal degradation byproducts and harsher hits, which is one more reason the low-temp playbook wins.

Quick reference: temperature windows

Profile Surface temp target Best for Trade-off
Max Flavor ≈ 480–540°F Rosin, live resin, terp-heavy sauce Smaller clouds, wants a cap + pearls
Balanced ≈ 545–595°F Everyday dabs, badder, most setups The all-rounder
Big Clouds ≈ 600–650°F Shatter, maximum vapor Terp loss, harsher hits, more residue
Cold start Melt-signal, not temp Slurpers, flavor chasers, small dabs Needs a clean banger every time

Frequently asked questions

How long should I heat a quartz banger?

With a full torch flame, roughly 25 seconds for a 2mm banger up to about 60 seconds for a 4mm banger, heating until the whole banger is saturated. The timer above adjusts this for your exact thickness, bucket diameter, material, banger style, and torch flame size.

How long should I let my banger cool before dabbing?

Typically 45–80 seconds for quartz depending on wall thickness and how hot you like your dabs. Thicker walls hold heat longer and need a longer cool-down. Flavor chasers wait longer; cloud chasers dab sooner. Set your profile above and the timer computes it, then tunes it from your feedback.

What is the best temperature for dabs?

Most dabbers land between about 480°F and 650°F at the surface. Around 480–540°F preserves the most flavor, the mid-500s is the balanced everyday zone, and 600°F+ produces the biggest vapor at the cost of taste. Rosin and live resin do best at the cooler end; shatter tolerates the warmer end.

What is a cold-start dab?

You load concentrate into a clean, room-temperature banger first, heat gently with a low flame until the melt starts to bubble (usually 8–20 seconds), then cap and pull. It's the gentlest, most flavor-forward way to dab. Slurpers made it popular but it works just as well in a regular bucket. The timer's Cold Start mode times the low-flame stage and gives you an "It's bubbling" button to advance the moment the melt runs.

Do terp slurpers need different timing?

Yes. Slurpers and blenders carry more glass than flat-tops, so they take longer to heat fully and longer to cool. The style selector adds that mass into both stages. Slurpers also work best with marble sets and terp pearls, and many slurper owners prefer cold-start dabs entirely.

Why does my second dab always feel hotter?

Because your banger never returned to room temperature. The timer arms Back-to-back mode automatically after each torch dab and scales the shortened timing by how long it's actually been, then resets to first-dab timing if you step away for more than five minutes.

Can I save my settings?

Yes. Set everything to match your rig, type a name, and hit Save. Presets are stored on your device with your personal calibration and load with one tap next session. To move them to a new phone, open "Move presets to another phone" under My Presets and enter your sync code on the new device. Install the app from your browser menu and it works offline.

Does a carb cap really let me dab at lower temps?

Yes. Restricting airflow lets your dab vaporize fully at lower temperatures. That's the whole low-temp playbook: a full heat-up, a patient cool-down, a directional cap, and pearls to move the puddle.

Put this timer on your site

Run a glass blog, forum, or shop? Embed the full timer free. Attribution is appreciated but not required:

<script src="https://dab-timer-mu.vercel.app/widget.js" async></script>
<div id="dab-timer-widget"></div>
<p><a href="https://oilslickpad.com/pages/dab-timer" rel="nofollow">Dab Timer by Oil Slick</a></p>

Everything the timer references is in the shop: quartz bangers in every thickness, directional carb caps, dab tools, and dab rigs — and every dab rig ships with a free quartz banger, every bong with a free glass bowl.

Timing model updated July 18, 2026. The timer estimates from thermal-mass lookup tables plus your personal calibration. It does not measure surface temperature, and it says so on the tin.

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