“Best schedule: quick rinse and wipe daily, a real ISO clean weekly, and a full deep clean monthly, because stale water and reclaim build up faster than you think.”
If you want smoother hits and better flavor, you’ve gotta clean dab tools and keep your rig water from turning into swamp soup. I’ve learned this the annoying way, by chasing “mystery harshness” for weeks, only to realize it was a dirty carb cap and funky water.
I’ve been dabbing for years (daily-driver levels), and I’ve tested a bunch of routines. The one below is the only one I’ve found that’s realistic, fast, and keeps your glass and quartz tasting like they should.
Here’s the schedule I’d give a friend. Not a lab. Not a “spend 45 minutes every night” fantasy.
Daily cleaning is less about “sterile” and more about not letting grossness set up camp.
Old rig water is the fastest way to ruin flavor. It also makes your rig smell like a forgotten bong behind a couch.
My bare minimum is one water swap every day I dab. If I’m doing a long weekend sesh, I’ll change it mid-day too.
After you dump the water, run hot tap water through the mouthpiece and joint for 20 to 30 seconds.
This doesn’t replace ISO. But it stops the “thin brown film” phase from becoming “why is my recycler coughing?”
The outside gets sticky from micro-splatter, reclaim fingerprints, and handling concentrates. Quick wipe with a slightly damp paper towel, then dry it.
It also keeps your rig from gluing itself to your dab tray. Been there.
dab mat" style="max-width: 100%; height: auto; border-radius: 12px;" loading="lazy"> Quartz bangers are flavor divas. Treat them right and they’ll reward you. Torch them dirty and they’ll taste like burnt popcorn forever.
After each dab:
1. Let the banger cool a bit (don’t q-tip molten lava)
2. Dry swab with a q-tip to pick up puddles
3. Optional but nice: one ISO-dampened swab to finish
4. Let it air dry before the next heat cycle
That’s it. Simple. Effective.
Torch cleaning is fine in small doses. But if you’re “nuking it clean” every day, you’re baking carbon into the quartz and shortening its life.
If you see cloudy white or gray patches (chazz), that’s usually overheated residue. You can sometimes improve it with a soak, but you usually can’t make it brand new again.
If your banger is removable (it is), soak it weekly.
I prefer 99% ISO for quartz because it flashes off faster and leaves less water behind. It costs a bit more, but you use less.
If you want an authority reference for safety and ventilation, NIOSH docs and ISO Safety Data Sheets are the grown-up reading.
Yes, this is the section where half of us accidentally throw away a dabber in a paper towel. I’ve done it. Twice. Pain.
I use one dedicated little container for all the tiny dabbing accessories:
Then I clean them all at once.
1. Put tools and caps in a small glass jar
2. Cover with 91% or 99% ISO
3. Soak 10 to 20 minutes
4. Swirl, then pull items out with tweezers
5. Rinse under hot water (or wipe with a clean wet paper towel)
6. Air dry completely
For a carb cap with airflow channels, I’ll run a toothpick or soft bristle brush through the air path after soaking. Gunk loves hiding there.
Spinner caps get gross where you don’t see it. Same with slurper sets.
If you notice your pearls aren’t spinning like they used to, it’s usually not “bad luck.” It’s reclaim in the cap channel.
A dab tool can hold old oil in micro scratches, especially cheap stamped metal. If your tool always smells weird even after cleaning, retire it.
A decent stainless dabber isn’t expensive. Usually $8 to $20. It’s worth it.
And yes, you should clean dab tools even if they “look clean.” Concentrate residue goes clear and still tastes stale.
Weekly cleaning is where you actually win back flavor. Daily keeps things from getting worse. Weekly makes it good.
1. Remove banger, cap, and any removable parts
2. Rinse the rig with hot water to warm up the gunk
3. Add ISO (91% or higher) and a spoonful of coarse salt
4. Cover holes and shake gently for 60 to 90 seconds
5. Let it sit 5 to 10 minutes if it’s stubborn
6. Rinse until the alcohol smell is gone
7. Final rinse with hot water, then air dry
Salt is just a scrubber. It helps a lot with reclaim film.
If your glass is delicate or you’ve got an expensive recycler with thin arms, don’t shake like you’re mixing a protein shake. Gentle. Patient. No need for heartbreak.
Your rig can be spotless and your setup can still be a sticky mess.
I like a simple dab station setup:
At Oil Slick Pad, this is the whole reason we’re obsessed with the “surface” part of dabbing. A good dab pad keeps your glass from clanking on hard tables, and it keeps sticky tools from turning your desk into a lint farm.
Real talk: silicone is a lifesaver for mess. But it still needs cleaning.
Skip harsh solvents on silicone unless you know the material can handle it. Some mats get weird over time.
Monthly is for the stuff that slowly creeps up on you.
If your rig has simple geometry, soaking is magic.
If your rig is a complicated recycler with narrow passages, soaking helps, but you’ll still need targeted shaking and maybe a brush.
The joint is where reclaim turns into black glue.
A skinny bottle brush or dedicated rig brush helps here. I’ve also used cotton swabs and wooden skewers (gently) for stubborn rings.
Some stuff never comes back:
Replace the problem child and move on. Your terps will thank you.
You don’t need a lab cart. But a few basics make the whole routine painless.
Basics (around $15 to $35 total)
Nice-to-have upgrades ($10 to $40)
Dab station helpers ($15 to $60)
If you’re building a clean little “home base,” a stable dab station with a mat plus a tray is the move. Less chaos. Fewer broken pieces. And it looks nice next to a vaporizer or even a pipe setup if you’re mixing methods.
I’ve done most of these. So you don’t have to.
People obsess over banger temp and terps, then inhale through two-day-old water. Wild.
Change it. Your dab rig will taste better immediately.
If your banger is constantly blackening, your temp is too high or you’re not swabbing.
Try lower temp, or a cold start if you keep scorching. Your lungs will notice the difference.
A dab rig isn’t a bong. Similar shape, totally different gunk.
Flower resin is tarry and smoky. Concentrate reclaim is oily and clingy. Treat them differently, clean them differently.
If you want extra reading for your next cleaning day, look for a rig-water hygiene post (biofilm is a whole thing), a quartz temp guide (especially for cold starts), and a dab station setup checklist using a dab pad and tray. Those three topics together solve most of the annoyances people blame on “bad wax.”
Now go enjoy your glass the way it’s supposed to hit. Clean, smooth, and actually flavorful.