Look, if you’re already running a control tower or terp slurper style setup, the 1.25″ 30mm quartz control tower hollow insert is worth it for most people because it boosts heat stability and makes your hits more consistent. And yes, it also makes your dab pad situation more important, because this thing rolls like it’s trying to escape.
I’ve been testing one for a little over a month, rotating it through my daily driver quartz and a couple different rigs, doing low temp, “oops that was too hot,” and cold start dabs. Real-life stuff. No lab coats.
banger, with a dab tool and glob mops nearby" style="max-width: 100%; height: auto; border-radius: 12px;" loading="lazy"> A “control tower” banger is basically a vertical tower style bucket that feeds airflow down into the bottom, usually paired with pillars, hollow inserts, or terp pearls to agitate your concentrate and keep it moving.
A hollow insert is like a quartz “cup” or “core” that sits inside the tower. Instead of dropping your rosin straight onto the banger floor, you’re heating the system and letting the insert act like a heat reservoir.
Why 30mm matters: 30mm is big enough to handle real dabs, not just tiny flavor dots. It’s also wide enough that you can run pearls without everything feeling cramped.
The “1.25 inch” spec is basically telling you the insert has some height to it, not just a shallow puck. That height helps keep the melt contained and can reduce splash up into the neck if you’re pulling hard like you’re trying to clear a bong.
I tested this insert over about 5 weeks. Mostly solventless rosin and some live resin, plus a little crumble that I regret buying because it sheds crumbs everywhere like a sad cookie.
This is the main reason to buy it. The insert adds thermal mass, so the banger temp doesn’t nosedive the second your concentrate hits.
My normal “bare quartz” routine is a 35 to 45 second heat, then a 45 to 70 second cool (depends on torch and room temp). With the insert in place, I found myself using slightly longer heat but getting a much wider “sweet spot” on the cooldown.
Translation: fewer wasted dabs that taste like pennies, fewer dabs that puddle and do nothing.
Smoother hits, yes. The vapor production ramps more evenly, so it’s less of that instant lung slap.
But honestly, the insert rewards patience. If you’re the type who wants to drop and rip immediately, you might feel like it’s “not milking” until the airflow and heat settle.
This is where control towers shine though. With the right carb cap and a steady pull, it starts chugging.
I ran it on:
It performed best on the recycler because the airflow is naturally steady. On the more open rig, I had to slow my pull or I’d cool the system too fast and leave a bigger puddle.
It helps flavor first, clouds second. And cleanup is a mixed bag.
For rosin, I got cleaner terps at temps where I’d usually get a slightly toasted note. If you’re chasing that “tastes like the jar smells” hit, inserts help.
The “why” is simple. The insert holds heat so you don’t have to start as hot to keep vaporization going.
Clouds are there, but they build. If you’re used to a standard bucket banger where the first pull is the biggest, this feels different.
Think of it like preheating a cast iron pan. It’s not instant, but once it’s in the zone, it stays in the zone.
Here’s the reality. An insert adds another piece you have to keep clean, and reclaim can build up between the insert and the banger if you’re sloppy.
But it also protects the banger floor from getting cooked by repeated high-heat dabs, so long-term it can keep your quartz looking nicer.
If you want the “best life” for the insert, let it cool until it’s warm, not hot, then swab.
For a deeper clean routine, the q-tip method still rules. If you want a step-by-step walkthrough, Oil Slick Pad has a solid cleaning guide you can follow:
https://oilslickpad.com/blogs/news/how-to-clean-a-quartz-banger
And if you want a nerdy external reference on isopropyl alcohol handling and safety, PubChem’s ISO page is a legit, non-bro-science resource:
https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Isopropyl-alcohol
A grippy dab pad is not optional with a hollow insert setup. This insert is small, round, and made of quartz, which means it loves to roll off your tray at the exact moment your hands are sticky.
I’m biased because I work with Oil Slick Pad, but I also use this stuff daily, and a good silicone dab mat makes the whole station calmer. Less clatter, less glass-on-glass, fewer “where did my pearl go” moments.
If your setup is more of a full desktop “dab station,” a dab tray style pad is better than a tiny coaster. Inserts mean more parts.
And yeah, people forget grinders belong in this conversation, too. If you’re doing a mixed flower and concentrate night, a grinder next to your dab station gets messy fast. A bigger pad gives you a buffer zone so kief and rosin don’t start dating.
If you’re building out your station, these are good reads:
https://oilslickpad.com/blogs/news/best-dab-pads-2026
https://oilslickpad.com/blogs/news/how-to-build-a-dab-station
This insert is a “small upgrade” that feels like a big upgrade if your technique is already decent.
You should grab one if:
Also, if you’re the friend who always ends up being the “dab tech” at the sesh, inserts make it easier to deliver consistent hits to everyone, including the person who pulls like they’re ripping a pipe.
You can skip it if:
And if you’re on an e-rig or a dedicated concentrate vaporizer most of the time, you might not notice enough difference to care. E-rigs already fake a lot of this consistency with temp control.
In early 2026, most quartz inserts land around:
Budget Range ($10 to $18)
Mid Range ($18 to $30)
Premium Range ($30 to $60)
If your 1.25″ 30mm hollow insert is in that mid range, I like the value. If it’s priced like premium, I’d want to see really clean finishing and consistent thickness.
This part matters more than people admit. Inserts are awesome until somebody treats quartz like it’s a cast iron skillet.
1. Place the insert in the control tower cold. No juggling hot pieces.
2. Heat the banger and insert together. I aim torch heat around the outside, not just blasting one spot.
3. Cool down a touch longer than normal.
4. Drop the dab on the insert surface, cap, and sip the pull.
If you like cold starts, you can cold start with the insert too. Just be gentle and watch for the first bubble and vapor. Don’t overcook it because you got distracted by a YouTube video.
1. While warm (not hot), swab with a dry glob mop first.
2. Follow with a lightly ISO-damp swab.
3. Let it air dry before the next heat cycle.
If you get chazzing, a deeper clean can help, but don’t go full caveman with scraping.
For an external reference on quartz material behavior and thermal shock basics, Corning’s fused quartz resources are a solid place to learn what quartz likes and hates:
https://www.corning.com/worldwide/en/products/fused-quartz.html
silicone mat, control tower banger, insert, pearls, carb cap, ISO, and glob mops" style="max-width: 100%; height: auto; border-radius: 12px;" loading="lazy"> Between you and me, yes, for the right dabber it’s a legit upgrade, not a gimmick. It makes low temp hits easier to nail, keeps your heat more stable, and turns a control tower into a more repeatable tool instead of a “hope this one works” science project.
But it’s also one more piece of quartz to baby, and it basically demands a proper dab pad or wax pad setup so you’re not playing kitchen-floor scavenger hunt with a rolling hot insert. I’d pair it with a grippy oil slick pad style concentrate pad, keep ISO and glob mops nearby, and call it a win.
If you want the biggest payoff, treat it like part of a system, not a magic part. Quartz, airflow, temp, and a clean station all stack. And yeah, your lungs will notice the difference.