“Buy a quartz banger by matching your rig joint (size, gender, angle) first, then pick a bucket size that fits your dab size, and choose flat-top for simplicity or thermal for temperature stability.” That’s the whole game.
This dabbing guide is for people who actually dab, not people who collect buzzwords. I’ve gone through a mildly embarrassing number of bangers over the last 8 years, everything from bargain buckets that chazzed in a week to thick quartz that still looks new because I finally stopped treating it like a campfire.
Match the joint. Always. If the joint doesn’t fit your dab rig, nothing else matters.
You’re matching three things:
If you don’t know your size, 14mm is the safe bet. It’s the most common on modern glass rigs and a lot of recycler-style dab rigs.
Quick vibe check:
This is the part people overthink.
Most dab rigs have female joints, so most bangers sold are male. But don’t guess.
If you buy the wrong angle, your bucket leans and your dab runs to one side. Flavor drops. Cleanup gets annoying fast.
Look, you can eyeball it. People do. People also buy the wrong banger and then pretend they meant to.
Here’s the no-drama way.
1. Measure the inner diameter of the joint opening (female) or outer diameter (male).
2. Use a cheap caliper if you have one, or print a joint size guide, then hold the joint up to it.
3. Confirm angle by setting the rig on a flat surface and looking at how the joint points relative to the table.
Typical measurements:
And yeah, it’s that literal.
If you’re shopping on oilslickpad.com and you’re not sure, this is also why I’m big on keeping your setup organized. A dab station with a dedicated spot for your banger boxes and adapters saves money. And sanity.
Bucket size is where people get weird. They either buy a comically huge bucket for “big dabs” and then only take rice-grain hits, or they buy a tiny bucket and overload it, then complain about puddles and reclaim.
Here’s what matters:
Small bucket (20mm to 22mm ID)
Medium bucket (25mm ID)
Large bucket (30mm ID)
Between you and me, 25mm is the safest “I don’t want to think” choice for a flat-top banger. It’s the Toyota Camry of buckets. Boring. Reliable.
Shallow buckets are easier to swab clean fast. Deep buckets can hide puddles and trick you into reheating, which is how chazz happens.
If you’re the type who likes cold starts, a slightly deeper bucket can be nice. If you’re a “one heat, one dab, one swab” person, shallow wins.
A “good” quartz banger isn’t magic quartz harvested under a full moon. It’s build quality, fit, and how it handles heat cycling.
This dabbing guide boils it down to a few checkpoints I actually care about.
Things I look for in hand:
Thin quartz heats fast, but it also punishes bad technique. Thick quartz is more forgiving, especially for beginners learning how to dab without nuking terps.
A flat-top banger needs a clean rim for a good carb cap seal.
If the rim is uneven, your cap wobbles, airflow gets inconsistent, and you end up torching longer to “make it work.” That turns into harsh hits. Every time.
This is the fun part. Also the part people overcomplicate to justify buying three bangers. I’ve done it too.
Flat-tops are the default for a reason.
They pair with a ton of caps:
Flat-tops also tend to be easier to clean because there’s less going on. Less surface area, fewer tight corners.
If you want one banger that works with most dabbing accessories, start here.
A thermal banger usually has a double wall or insulated design. The goal is holding a stable temp longer, especially for longer pulls.
When they’re good, they’re really good. You get more time in the tasty zone without reheating.
When they’re annoying, they’re really annoying. More edges. More crevices. More places for reclaim to camp out.
My honest take: thermal bangers are great if you already have your basics dialed, like torch control and swab habits. They’re not the banger I hand to a friend who’s still learning.
Budget Daily Driver ($20 to $40)
Flavor First ($35 to $70)
Long Sesh ($45 to $90)
Price reality in 2026: decent quartz is not “expensive,” but the cheapest stuff still tends to chazz faster and fit worse. I’d rather spend a bit more once than hate-clean a cloudy bucket forever.
You’ve probably seen the whole menu by now: terp slurpers, blenders, auto-spinners, control towers. They’re fun. They also add friction to your routine.
A lot of people are also mixing setups now. A compact vaporizer for out-and-about, a glass dab rig at home, and sometimes a bong for flower. If you’re rotating pieces, the simplest banger usually gets used the most.
Here’s how I frame it.
If you’re building a clean dab station, I still recommend a flat-top bucket first. Then add the weird stuff once your routine is locked.
Your banger doesn’t live alone. The stuff around it decides if it stays clear or turns into a chazzed science project.
Don’t buy a random cap and hope.
Match to your banger style:
And please don’t go pearl-crazy. One or two small pearls, like 3mm to 6mm, is plenty for most buckets.
This is where a dab pad stops being “extra” and starts being the difference between clean and chaotic.
I keep my rig on an Oil Slick Pad because I’m tired of sticky tools, rolling pearls, and reclaim dots on my desk. A silicone dab mat also shrugs off ISO and heat better than most random trays people use.
Call it a concentrate pad, wax pad, dab tray, whatever. The point is: contain the mess.
Good setup basics:
If you want your banger to stay nice:
1. Dab at a reasonable temp.
2. Swab immediately after the hit while it’s still warm.
3. ISO swab once it’s cooler, not ripping hot.
4. Don’t torch the stains off every time. That’s how you bake them in.
If you want a nerdy temperature rabbit hole, an external link to a reputable fused quartz technical note can help explain thermal shock and why sudden cooling can stress quartz. And for ISO handling, an external link to a current isopropyl alcohol safety data sheet is worth having bookmarked.
I see these constantly in the community, especially with people upgrading glass.
Adapters are fine. But stacking adapters plus a heavy banger can put torque on your joint. That’s how glass joints crack.
If you must adapt, keep it minimal. And don’t leave it assembled in a drawer like a loaded spring.
A 30mm bucket looks cool. But if you’re taking small dabs, it’s just wasted heat and slower sessions.
I like big buckets for groups. Solo, I’d rather have a 25mm that heats evenly fast.
Hot dabs happen. Sometimes you’re outside, it’s windy, your torch is acting up, and you just send it.
But if your daily routine is “glow, wait a bit, hope,” your banger will look like a camp skillet. And your terps will taste like regret.
If you do cold starts, choose a bucket that’s easy to watch and swab. If you do traditional low temp, choose thickness and a cap that seals well.
How to dab “correctly” depends on your habits, not someone else’s TikTok clip.
If you’re already dialing in your gear, a couple related reads help a lot:
Those three topics solve most “why does my setup feel messy and inconsistent?” problems.
I’ll leave you with this: the best dabbing guide is the one that results in you taking more flavorful hits and spending less time scraping reclaim off random surfaces. Put your rig on a real dab pad, keep your tools on a dab tray, and stop buying mystery-size bangers because the photo looked cool. Your lungs, your terps, and your future self will all be less annoyed.