February 12, 2026 10 min read

“Buy a butane torch with an adjustable pinpoint flame, a wide stable base, and a reliable refill valve for 90 percent of dab rigs, use propane only for big quartz and outdoor sessions, and don’t compromise on safety locks.”

That’s the core of my dabbing guide for torches in 2026. Torches look simple until you’re standing there, banger half-heated, fuel sputtering, terps dying in real time. I’ve been dabbing for years, and I’ve rotated through everything from cheap pocket torches that tipped over if you looked at them funny, to the chunky “shop torch” style that feels like it belongs next to a power drill.

Thing is, the “best torch” depends on your rig, your banger, and your tolerance for little daily annoyances.

What should you look for first in a torch?

Start with stability, flame control, and refill sanity.

A torch can have the hottest flame on earth, but if it wobbles on your dab tray, it’s a problem. Same if the flame adjustment is basically “off” and “dragon.”

Here’s the short checklist I wish someone handed me early on:

  • A wide base that won’t tip on a dab station, even on a soft silicone dab mat
  • Smooth flame adjustment that can hold a low temp heat-up
  • Easy-to-use ignition that doesn’t misfire every other click
  • A refill valve that doesn’t burp fuel back at you
  • A clear-ish fuel window or at least predictable runtime
  • A real lock or trigger safety, especially if you keep it near a bong, pipe, or grinder clutter
Warning: If a torch feels top-heavy in your hand at the shop, it’ll feel twice as sketchy on a crowded desk at 1 a.m.

And yeah, looks matter a little. If it’s ugly enough that you stash it out of sight, you’ll end up leaving it somewhere dumb. Like on the edge of your glass shelf. Ask me how I know.

Which torch fits your dabbing guide setup in 2026?

Your torch choice is tied to what you actually heat.

A petite quartz banger on a small dab rig does not need the same flame as a thick-bottom 30 mm blender or a terp slurper with extra quartz mass. If you’re mostly cold-starting, you’ll also want finer control than someone doing hotter, faster heat-ups.

Here’s how I map it:

If you dab on a small rig and chase flavor

You’ll probably be happiest with butane and a single jet flame.

You’re trying to warm quartz evenly without blasting it. A controllable pinpoint flame makes it easier to stay in that “tastes like the strain” zone.

If you’re heating chunky quartz (slurpers, blenders, thick buckets)

You need more heat delivery, not just more flame.

This is where multi-jet butane torches shine, or propane if you’re outdoors and fighting wind. More jets can cut your heat-up time, but you also increase the odds of accidentally cooking one side of the banger if you’re sloppy. Real tradeoff.

If you’re mostly on a vaporizer or e-rig lately

Then you might not need a torch at all. But I keep a torch anyway.

Even people who daily a vaporizer end up with a quartz setup for the weekend, or for that one jar of rosin they want to treat like a ceremony. The torch becomes part of the ritual again.

Pro Tip: Match the torch to your most common banger, not the one “someday” banger you plan to buy. Your daily driver rules your life.

Butane vs propane, what’s the real difference for dabbing?

Butane is the default for a reason. Propane has a few legit uses, but it’s not the vibe for most indoor dab setups.

Butane for dabs (most people, most homes)

Butane torches are typically smaller, cleaner feeling in a dab station, and easier to aim precisely. The flame temperature in air is plenty to heat quartz for how to dab properly, especially if you’re not rushing it.

The downside is wind. Butane flames can get bullied outside, and cheap butane can clog or sputter.

My butane habits that actually helped:

  • Use decent refined butane (the super cheap stuff can smell funkier and spit more)
  • Purge air after refilling (more on that below)
  • Don’t crank the flame to max unless you’re doing a quick heat on thicker quartz

Propane for dabs (outdoors, big quartz, cold weather)

Propane burns hotter than butane and handles cold temps better. If you dab outside in winter, propane can feel like a cheat code.

But it’s also more aggressive. That extra heat can punish quartz if you’re heavy-handed, and the whole setup is usually bulkier. Think small blue canister energy. Not exactly “neat dab tray aesthetic.”

Also, propane torches tend to feel more like hardware tools than dabbing accessories. That’s fine. Just be honest about your space and comfort level.

Note: If you’re using propane indoors, make ventilation non-negotiable. Open window, airflow, no excuses.

What about “butane-propane mixes” or weird fuels?

I don’t love experimenting here. Torches are engineered for certain fuels and pressures.

If your torch says butane, feed it butane. If it says propane, feed it propane. I’m boring like that, and I’ve avoided a lot of hassle by staying boring.

For deeper safety specifics, the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission has solid general guidance on fires and burn prevention that applies to fuel torches too: https://www.cpsc.gov/Safety-Education/Safety-Guides/Fire

What flame types actually work for dab heating?

Flame shape matters more than people admit. It changes how evenly you heat, how fast you get there, and how often you accidentally scorch your banger.

Close-up of a quartz banger being heated with a single-jet torch,  flame distance and angle
Close-up of a quartz banger being heated with a single-jet torch, flame distance and angle

Single jet (pinpoint)

My favorite for day-to-day.

It’s easier to “paint” the quartz by moving the flame around the bottom and sides. If you’re trying to dial low temp, this is the least chaotic option.

Best for:

  • Standard quartz buckets
  • Cold starts
  • Flavor-forward rosin hits
  • Smaller dab rigs

Annoyance factor:

  • Slower on thick quartz
  • Wind can mess with it outdoors

Dual or quad jet

Faster heat-up, more risk of uneven heat if you camp one spot.

I like multi-jet for terp slurpers and blenders because they’re basically quartz heat sinks. But I have to pay attention more. If I’m distracted, I’ll overdo it.

Best for:

  • Thick bangers
  • Large buckets
  • Faster sesh pace with friends

Annoyance factor:

  • Can char one area of quartz if you’re lazy
  • Chews through fuel faster

“Wide flame” or torch heads that feel like a mini flamethrower

These are usually propane territory or big shop-style torches.

They’re effective. They’re also kind of unhinged for a small indoor dab station next to your favorite glass. I’m not saying don’t, I’m saying respect it.

Best for:

  • Outdoor dabs
  • Seriously thick quartz
  • Cold weather sessions
Important: Flame distance matters. I aim the tip of the inner blue cone close to the quartz, but not kissing it. If your flame is leaving soot or your banger is getting spotty discoloration fast, back it up and calm down.

What safety re actually worth paying for?

Real talk, most torch “features” are fluff. Safety is not.

Here’s what I care about, and why.

A stable base (or a torch that can stand confidently)

If your torch can’t stand up on its own, you’ll end up laying it on its side. That’s when hot nozzle meets silicone dab mat meets bad day.

I’ve had a torch roll into a dab tool once. Nothing catastrophic, but my heart rate spiked hard.

A working lock

You want a lock that’s easy to engage and won’t randomly slip.

If you live with roommates, pets, or you’re the friend who hosts the sesh, a lock is peace of mind. Kids in the house? Lock plus smart storage, always.

Leak resistance and a decent refill valve

If a torch smells like fuel when it’s just sitting there, I don’t trust it.

A good valve feels snug when you refill. A bad one feels mushy, or it sprays back. And if you’ve ever gotten that cold butane blast on your fingers, you remember it.

For standards and fuel cylinder safety background, NFPA 58 is the big reference for LP gas (propane) storage and handling: https://www.nfpa.org/codes-and-standards/all-codes-and-standards/list-of-codes-and-standards/detail?code=58

Piezo ignition that doesn’t make you fight it

If I have to click 12 times every heat-up, I’m going to do something dumb like keep the gas flowing while I spam clicks. That’s not a good pattern.

I’d rather pay a little more for ignition that just works.

Warning: Don’t test a torch for leaks with a flame. Use soapy water on connections for propane setups, and pay attention to smell and hiss on butane gear.

How do you refill and maintain a torch so it stays consistent?

Torch maintenance is unsexy, but it’s the difference between smooth sessions and “why is this thing sputtering again?”

Refilling butane the clean way

1. Turn the torch off fully, flame adjustment down.

2. Let it cool for a minute if you just used it.

3. Hold the torch upside down.

4. Press the butane can nozzle straight into the fill valve for 3 to 5 seconds.

5. Stop, wait 10 seconds, repeat once or twice until full.

6. Let it sit upright for 3 to 5 minutes before igniting.

That rest time helps the fuel stabilize and reduces sputter.

Purging trapped air (the step everyone skips)

If your torch starts hissing, spitting, or flaring weird after refills, it might have air in the tank.

You can usually purge by pressing the refill valve briefly with a small tool (like a dab tool you don’t care about), outdoors and away from ignition sources. A short press. Not a long vent.

And yeah, this is one reason I keep a designated “dirty” dab tool around.

Keeping your torch clean

Wipe the outside. Keep oil and reclaim off it.

If your hands are sticky from loading a terp slurper, wash up before you grab the torch. Reclaim plus textured grips turns into grime fast.

If you want a simple cleanup routine for the whole setup, our guide to cleaning dab tools and quartz pairs nicely with this.

What are the best use cases and torch picks by scenario?

I’m not going to pretend there’s one perfect torch. There are good fits.

Here are the categories that actually make sense, with realistic pricing I’ve seen in 2026.

Budget Option ($15 to $25)

  • Fuel: Butane
  • Flame type: Single jet
  • Tank: Small (often under 10 g butane equivalent)
  • Best for: Occasional dabs, travel kit, backup torch
  • Watch out for: Tippy bases, finicky igniters, weak flame adjustment

Midrange Daily Driver ($30 to $60)

  • Fuel: Butane
  • Flame type: Strong single jet or dual jet
  • Tank: Medium (often 10 to 20 g equivalent)
  • Best for: Most dab rigs, quartz buckets, low temp focus
  • Why I like it: Control without feeling fragile

Heavy Quartz and Group Sesh ($60 to $120)

  • Fuel: Butane (sometimes propane in this price band for hardware-style setups)
  • Flame type: Dual to quad jet, higher output
  • Tank: Larger, more predictable runtime
  • Best for: Terp slurpers, blenders, thick 25 mm to 30 mm buckets
  • Tradeoff: Faster heat means easier to overheat if you’re not paying attention

Outdoor or Cold Weather Setup ($25 to $80 plus fuel canister)

  • Fuel: Propane
  • Flame type: Wide flame or high-output torch head
  • Best for: Windy patios, winter dabs, camping
  • Tradeoff: Bulk, plus it’s easier to roast quartz by accident

Between you and me, I keep two torches. A controllable butane single jet for everyday, and a higher-output option for the occasional “why is this banger taking forever” moment.

How does your dab station change torch choice?

A torch isn’t a standalone gadget. It lives in a messy ecosystem.

If you’re building a dab station that doesn’t feel like a junk drawer, you’ll start caring about footprint, base width, and where the hot parts point when you set it down.

Neat dab station with a silicone dab mat, torch, <a href=carb cap, dab tools, and a glass rig on a tray" style="max-width: 100%; height: auto; border-radius: 12px;" loading="lazy">
Neat dab station with a silicone dab mat, torch, carb cap, dab tools, and a glass rig on a tray

Here’s what’s worked for me:

  • Put your torch on the far edge of your dab tray, not next to jars
  • Use a silicone dab mat or wax pad under the torch area, something like 8 x 12 inches if your station is tight
  • Keep a dedicated concentrate pad spot for loading, so you’re not hovering over your glass rig with sticky hands
  • If you’re using an Oil Slick Pad setup, I like pairing the torch with a silicone dab mat that’s thick enough to stay flat, plus a simple tool rest

And don’t ignore the boring stuff. A stable surface beats a fancy torch every time.

If your station is also where your bong, pipe, or grinder lives, declutter it. You don’t want a torch base balancing on a pile of screens and kief scrapings. Gross.

Pro Tip: I keep two “zones.” A clean zone for jars, carb caps, and the rig. A hot zone for the torch, q-tips, and the ISO container. It cuts down on accidents and it keeps terps off everything.

I’m still a little surprised how much a torch affects the whole vibe of a session. The right one disappears, you just heat, dab, swab, repeat. The wrong one turns every hit into a tiny wrestling match.

If you take one thing from this dabbing guide, let it be this: choose the torch that matches your quartz and your habits, then build your dab station around safety and flow. A steady butane single jet covers most people. Propane is a specialist tool. And a good silicone dab mat or concentrate pad under it all makes the whole setup feel intentional, not chaotic.

If you want to keep dialing in your setup, you’ll probably also like our posts on building a simple dab station, and picking the right 12em; font-weight: inherit;">dab pad and dab tray. I’m always tinkering, and I’m guessing you are too.


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