> A 1" quartz control tower solid insert is a heat-holding quartz “core” that sits inside a control tower style banger to smooth out temps, stretch flavor, and make your timing way less fussy.
I’ve been testing these inserts for a few months now as part of my own dabbing guide experiments, the nerdy kind where I take the same rosin, the same torch, and keep changing one variable until it either clicks… or annoys me.
And yeah, this little chunk of quartz can change how a control tower feels. Not magically. But noticeably.
A control tower banger (sometimes lumped into the terp slurper family) is that tall, vertical quartz setup where vapor production happens more like a “pull through” than a standard bucket dab.
The solid insert is basically a 1 inch wide piece of quartz that sits inside and acts like a thermal battery.
Here’s what I’ve observed it actually does in real use:
Truth is, it can, but only if your heat routine makes sense.
When the insert is in there, you’re heating more mass. That means the heat-up takes a bit longer, but the drop-off is slower. For me, that translated to better flavor on the first 1 to 3 pulls, especially on live resin and cold-cure rosin.
The biggest win is consistency. Without the insert, my control tower hits sometimes went:
With the insert, I get a more even arc. Less drama.
If you love low temp, the insert is your friend. You can aim lower and still get full vaporization.
If you’re a hot dab gremlin (no judgment), the insert can still work, but it’ll punish you if you overheat. Quartz holds onto that heat, and your terps will tap out quicker.
I’m not going to pretend everyone has a terpometer. I don’t always use one either.
But when I did measure, I kept liking the insert hits in that roughly 480°F to 540°F zone on the contact area, depending on the concentrate. That range tends to keep rosin tasty without leaving a sad puddle.
If you want a solid external citation spot, quartz heat behavior and thermal shock resistance is worth reading about from a materials source like a quartz manufacturer or engineering reference. One decent starting point is Corning’s quartz/fused silica info:
https://www.corning.com/worldwide/en/products/advanced-optics/product-materials/fused-silica.html
Picture this: you get the insert, drop it in, and it either rattles like a coin in a jar or wedges in like it pays rent.
Fit matters.
Here’s what I check before I commit:
1. Measure the inner diameter where the insert will sit (cheap calipers are fine)
2. Check the insert diameter (many are close to 25.4 mm, but not always exact)
3. Look for a tiny bit of breathing room, you want airflow, not a quartz plug
4. Make sure the insert doesn’t block your tower’s intake holes or lower slits, if it has them
But honestly, the “feel test” is real. If it drops in smoothly and you can tip the banger and it doesn’t jam, you’re probably good.
Control towers already have some airflow resistance compared to a basic bucket. Add an insert and you’re increasing mass and sometimes slightly changing flow.
I like this combo most on:
And yeah, you can run a control tower on a beaker bong, but it’s not my favorite. The bong wants big airflow. The tower wants steadier pull. They can argue.
If you’re shopping setups, the current 2026 trend I keep seeing is smaller “daily driver” rigs that sit cleanly on a desk next to a dab station, plus an e-rig or vaporizer for travel. The insert fits that vibe because it makes desktop dabbing more repeatable.
Look, this part is where most people either love the insert or hate it.
Because your old timing probably won’t work.
Here are two methods I’ve used a lot.
1. Place the insert inside the tower.
2. Torch the outside wall and bottom area evenly, keep the flame moving.
3. Heat a little longer than you would without the insert, usually 10 to 20 seconds more depending on torch and quartz thickness.
4. Let it cool longer than usual, start with an extra 10 to 20 seconds on your normal cooldown.
5. Drop your dab, cap it, then inhale steady.
If your dab sizzles violently and tastes sharp, you’re too hot. Wait longer next round.
If it puddles forever and you’re pulling air, you’re too cool. Heat a touch more next round.
Cold starts on towers can be weird, but the insert makes them less weird.
1. Load your concentrate first (small rice grain size while learning).
2. Put the insert in place if your tower design allows it without smashing the dab.
3. Cap it.
4. Torch gently until you see the dab start to melt and bubble.
5. Inhale slowly, then back off the flame.
This is one of the easiest ways to learn how to dab on a control tower without instantly scorching terps.
Between you and me, the insert is only half the battle. The other half is not living in a sticky disaster zone.
If you’re running a control tower plus insert, your dab station should include a couple basics:
I’m biased, but a silicone dab mat makes this whole setup calmer. Oil Slick Pad exists for exactly this reason, you want a surface that grips your rig and wipes clean without turning into a lint magnet.
If you like a larger workspace, go dab tray style. If you’re minimal, a wax pad sized mat works. Either way, having a “this is the dab zone” boundary reduces accidents.
And if you’re also a grinder person for flower sessions, keep that stuff separate. A dab station covered in kief is a sensory crime.
Real talk: this is where people get lazy, then wonder why everything tastes like burnt popcorn.
The insert gets dirty because it’s doing its job. It’s holding heat and touching vaporized concentrate.
After each dab:
1. Let the insert cool until it’s warm, not scorching.
2. Dry swab with a glob mop.
3. If there’s residue, do a second swab lightly dampened with ISO.
4. Let it fully dry before you heat again.
For deeper cleaning (every few sessions):
1. Soak the insert in 91% or 99% isopropyl alcohol for 30 to 60 minutes.
2. Rinse with warm water.
3. Air dry completely.
If you want an external citation spot that’s genuinely useful, isopropyl alcohol handling and safety is best pulled from a reliable SDS source. Even a basic reference like PubChem is better than vibes:
https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Isopropyl-alcohol
If reclaim starts glazing on, it usually means one of three things:
I’ve had batches of budget wax that gunked up the insert twice as fast. Not the insert’s fault. Just reality.
This is the part I care about most. Because not every dabbing accessory is worth adding to your life.
Pricing moves around, but in 2026 a reasonable range for quartz inserts tends to land here:
Budget Option ($10 to $20)
Midrange Option ($20 to $35)
Premium Option ($35 to $60+)
And yeah, you’ll still want the basics under it. A good dab pad, a stable rig, and a clean setup beat fancy quartz every time.
If you want related reads while you’re building out your setup, Oil Slick Pad has solid guides on cleaning a dab rig fast, picking the right dab tool for different textures, and setting up a dab station that doesn’t turn into a sticky junk drawer.
Thing is, I didn’t expect to like the 1" quartz control tower solid insert as much as I do. I thought it’d be one of those “nice on paper” upgrades that ends up living in a drawer.
But it earned a spot in my rotation.
It made my control tower feel less temperamental, and it helped me get the kind of steady, terpy hits I usually associate with a good vaporizer session, just with more punch. I still use my regular banger on days I want quick and mindless, but when I’m actually settling in for a proper sesh, the insert comes out.
If you’re building your own dabbing guide in 2026, this insert is one of those small upgrades that changes the whole rhythm. Not required. Not magic. Just… better, in a way you can feel after a week of using it.
And if it saves even one dab from being accidentally incinerated, I’d call that a win.